Search

» » Anthony Gismondi: ‘Soft’ red wines to help you handle a hard winter - Vancouver Sun

Anthony Gismondi: ‘Soft’ red wines to help you handle a hard winter - Vancouver Sun

kristangbang.blogspot.com

Tannin management has become an art over the last 25 years, yielding dense, ripe, soft tannins that bring structure to the wine without adding dryness and bitterness

Much of red wine's structure, texture and mouthfeel comes from the tannin in the wine.
Much of red wine's structure, texture and mouthfeel comes from the tannin in the wine. Photo by Silberkorn /Getty Images

Foggy, cool, wet weather on the coast paired with even colder snowy weather in the Interior has most wine drinkers thinking about red wine at this time of the year, and in many cases, the bigger, the better.

But what is a full-bodied red? Perhaps its most distinguishing feature is its authoritative finish. Long, rich, persistent and sometimes warm (from higher alcohol). It is a wine that lingers on your palate long after you swallow it.

Much of red wine’s structure, texture and mouthfeel comes from the tannin in the wine, and the tannins come from grape skins, seeds, stems, oak and, in some cases, additives to wine. Soft tannins, a buzz phrase in today’s winemaking, are making the hard, dry tannins of the past that leave your mouth puckered and your taste buds bitter a distant memory.

Tannin management has become an art over the last 25 years, starting in the vineyard where precision agriculture and picking at the right moment yields dense, ripe, soft tannins that bring structure to the wine without adding dryness and bitterness. Add to that gentle handling and less juice movement by mechanical pumps (think gravity), and we are getting more stylish tannins at the winery. The trick is to build texture, structure and mouthfeel without extracting palate-drying tannins.

Modern tannin management uses shade cloth to protect the bunches from sunburn and the grapes from shrivelling into raisins. Leaf pulling lets speckled light through the canopy for slower ripening. In some cases, we see a return to the old California Sprawl or “ballerina” canopy that naturally protected the berries from the harsh midday sun.

Today we offer up six red wines replete with soft tannins designed to meet cold, wet, snowy winter weather head-on. Look for more pricey big reds in our weekend wine picks below.

Gabriel Meffre Plan de Dieu ($17.99) is a perfect Cotes du Rhone red mixes Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, yielding round, soft textures you can sip now. Its black fruits and plush textures are the perfect backdrops for a roast chicken or a classic Provencal ratatouille during snow or rain.

Locally, soft tannins and bright fruit mark the Mayhem Anarchy Reserve Merlot ($19.20) from the Okanagan Valley. It is mostly Merlot with a small portion of Cabernet Franc that is savoury and packed with dark fruit flavours and dense, slippery tannins. A beef stew and a glass of Anarchy sounds about right for the times.

Tempranillo is another red grape with a softish side, and we like the El Petit Bonhomme Tinto ($15.99), a mix of Monastrell, Garnacha and Syrah 2019. Petit is made to drink its pure and light black cherry fruit to its complex, old-vine flavours. Hamburgers, meat tacos or cheesy pizza are the dovetail match.

The Yalumba Organic Shiraz ($17.99) is a medium-bodied, spicy, mulberry juicy red from organically certified vineyards. Look for plush soft tannins and moderate acidity. It is an affordable and reliable mid-week red suited to grilled lamb chops or spicy wings.

Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais ($15.99) based on the Gamay grape has always been a drink now, low-tannin, low-alcohol, uncomplicated red. Beaujolais and quail are considered a fine match in France, but a less fussy Margherita pizza or spicy tuna sushi roll would be equally fun to share with this wine.

Our final pick is boxed wine, one of a growing number in the market. By nature, these wines come with soft tannins for early drinking. If you find one that suits your taste, the price can be attractive. We recommend a warm, spicy, soft earthy Cardinal Zin Beastly Old Vines ($37) from California with homemade spicy ramen with tofu.

Weekend wine picks

Sidewood Stablemate Shiraz 2018, Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia 

$23.99 I 89/100

UPC: 9316770311620

The parcels of fruit are pre-selected for the perfect ripeness. A portion goes through the fermentation process as whole berries and under a partial carbonic maceration to add more layers of complexity. In the glass, it’s textbook fresh Adelaide Hills, with plummy white peppery fruit and a lovely long and juicy mid-palate that finishes fresh with a hit of spice and silky tannins that only add to its charm. Lamb chops, anyone? Fine value.

Yalumba Samuel’s Collection Barossa Shiraz 2018, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia 

$28 I 89/100

UPC: 9311789200958

The fruit is sourced from Barossa vineyards. The vines range from young (approximately 10-12 years old to greater than 35 years). Production goes into a mix of oak French, American, and Hungarian, with one-quarter new to shape this surprisingly easy-sipping, dense-textured Shiraz. Blackberry, blueberry and cassis with a touch of leather mark the attack flecked with tobacco and brown spices. As mentioned, this is easy on the palate already, so you can drink it now, although another year in bottle would further help this wine reach its zenith. A solid if safe offering.

Altesino Rosso di Montalcino 2018, Tuscany, Italy 

$27.99 I 91/100

UPC: 662255300337

This Rosso is just coming into its prime. Look for bright red, the nose is wild and fresh with earthy scents of wild berries and cedar, and the palate is a mix of ripe plums and dark cherries with bright acidity and tame tannins. Simple but sophisticated with the always present elegance of Altesino. A classic Euro wine that is ready to drink.

Castello di Ama San Lorenzo Chianti Classico 2019, Siena, Tuscany, Italy 

$44.99 I 91/100

UPC: 08021846141124

Winemaker Marco Pallanti ages his Chianti Classico for 12 months in used barriques that give the fruit some breathing room without inhibiting its vibrancy. The aromas are spectacular, all on the red fruit spectrum mixing cherry and raspberry with the perfect amount of earth and classic forest floor. Vibrant, energizing and pure, it is a delicious bottle of Chianti that speaks to the full potential of the region’s wine. Drink or hold seven to 10 years; there is no rush.

Fonseca Bin No 27 Finest Reserve Port N/V, Douro Valley, Portugal 

$27.00 I 89/100

UPC: 5013521100451

Bin 27 is a full-on reserve ruby port, packed with rich, lush, spicy, dark fruits that drain into a classic soft, sweet, exotic Port experience devoid of any tannin. So pop the top, sit back and enjoy a glass or two in front of the fireplace.

Think pancakes are best served at breakfast? Think again. Lead chef-instructor Ben Kiely at Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts created this savoury recipe that shines a spotlight on sunchokes and horseradish — as well as B.C. smoked salmon. Kiely assures this impressively flavourful dish is easy to prepare at home — and can be enjoyed at all hours.

Crispy sunchoke-potato pancakes created by lead chef-instructor Ben Kiely at Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts.
Crispy sunchoke-potato pancakes created by lead chef-instructor Ben Kiely at Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts. Photo by Pacific Institute of Culinary Ar /PNG

Crispy sunchoke-potato pancakes with B.C. smoked salmon, watercress, horseradish and dill yogurt

Sunchoke-potato pancakes

2 russet potatoes, peeled and grated

256 g (9 oz) sunchokes (also known as Jerusalem artichokes), peeled and grated

1 egg

3 tbsp (45 mL) flour

Salt and pepper

Combine the grated potato and sunchokes, then transfer to a cheesecloth or clean paper towel. Squeeze out the excess moisture and transfer to a mixing bowl. Add the egg, flour, and salt and pepper to taste.

Heat the oil in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Using your hands, form the potato mixture into flat cakes. Carefully drop the cakes into the hot oil and fry until golden-brown, about three minutes on each side. Transfer the cakes to a paper towel-lined plate to drain.

Horseradish and dill yogurt

30g (1 oz) freshly grated horseradish

1/4 cup (60 mL) Greek yoghurt

A few drops lemon juice

1 tbsp (15 mL) fresh dill chopped

Small pinch salt

Place all ingredients into a clean bowl, mix well and set aside.

To serve

12 thin slices of smoked salmon

Sprigs of fresh watercress

Paprika, to dust

Place a piece of the salmon on each of the crispy pancakes. Arrange a sprig of watercress on top of the salmon and spoon a little of the horseradish yogurt on top of the watercress. Repeat this process with all the pancakes, then place on a platter and sprinkle with paprika.

Serves 4-6 people.

Recipe Match

B.C. smoked salmon on a sunchoke-potato pancake is a natural match with local sparkling wine. — Anthony Gismondi.

CedarCreek Platinum Jagged Rock Sparkling Rosé N/V, Okanagan Valley $35

A fresh, creamy strawberry-scented sparkler with subtle notes of pink grapefruit with a dusting of savoury sagebrush is a smoke salmon march and more.

Chronos Brut Chardonnay – Pinot Noir N/V, Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia $34.99

White peach, pear and red apple fruit aromas and flavours mark this ready-to-drink, bright, crisp fizz that will cut into the salmon and smoke.

  1. A brand's reputation, wine recommendations from trusted wine professionals (and friends) and online comments from Internet wine sites have become the main sources consumers turn to when buying wine today.

    Anthony Gismondi: It’s all about winemakers’ e-reputation and brand today

  2. Many younger growers have moved outside classic and classified regions in search of more affordable land for cultivating grapes.

    Anthony Gismondi: When it comes to grape growing, the classifications of 100 years ago may be irrelevant

More news, fewer ads, faster load time: Get unlimited, ad-lite access to the Vancouver Sun, the Province, National Post and 13 other Canadian news sites for just $14/month or $140/year. Subscribe now through the Vancouver Sun or The Province.

    Comments

    Postmedia is committed to maintaining a lively but civil forum for discussion and encourage all readers to share their views on our articles. Comments may take up to an hour for moderation before appearing on the site. We ask you to keep your comments relevant and respectful. We have enabled email notifications—you will now receive an email if you receive a reply to your comment, there is an update to a comment thread you follow or if a user you follow comments. Visit our Community Guidelines for more information and details on how to adjust your email settings.

    Adblock test (Why?)



    "soft" - Google News
    February 05, 2022 at 12:08AM
    https://ift.tt/FPyYnrx

    Anthony Gismondi: ‘Soft’ red wines to help you handle a hard winter - Vancouver Sun
    "soft" - Google News
    https://ift.tt/il3mKpe
    https://ift.tt/auS7zUc

    Bagikan Berita Ini

    0 Response to "Anthony Gismondi: ‘Soft’ red wines to help you handle a hard winter - Vancouver Sun"

    Post a Comment

    Subscribe to: Post Comments (Atom)
    Powered by Blogger.