Moulin, Orange County’s boutique chain of French cafes, has opened a new spot serving dinner. It will be easy to find, adjacent to its Moulin Cafe in Newport Beach which just celebrated its 7th anniversary. Here’s all you need to know about the new restaurant, Moulin Bouillon.
Background: Owner Laurent Vrignaud, has modeled MB on the brasserie-style eateries popular in Paris in the late 1800s. There blue-collar workers could enjoy a hearty meal of meat and a broth, or bouillon, at an affordable price. While MB doesn’t serve broth yet, soup specials are coming.
The look: This 3,000-square-foot space, with 60 seats, was previously a short-lived, Latin-themed restaurant but most locals remember it better as Juliette Kitchen + Bar. No walls were knocked down and Vrignaud didn’t hire an architect or designer to do a major overhaul. He’s simply brightened up the place by replacing wood floors with light, polished concrete and painting everything white, including the coffered ceiling.
The redesign is meant to evoke La Belle Époque with a zinc bar, vintage tables and light fixtures, handmade chairs by Maison Gatti and Ardamez and framed prints of Paris in the early 1900s. All the antiques, art, furniture and fixtures are collected by Vrignaud during visits to France. He’s quite the collector; you might see him selling his wares at the swap meet in Long Beach.
The space that occupied the wine shop at the former Juliette will be devoted to a boutique offering kitchenware, linens and furniture imported directly from France such as chairs, ceramics, tablecloths, Laguiole knives and wine openers, wooden charcuterie and cheese boards.
The vibe: Vrignaud prides himself on setting a Parisian scene, but don’t look for berets and Eiffel towers. He does it by hiring Francophones, point-blank telling the kids of his French customers he’s recruiting them.
“Jean-Pierre Dubray was the executive chef at Pelican Hill for 13 years, now he’s the executive chef at the Waldorf resort. When I first met his twins Sophie and Gaby they were 10 years old. And they thought it was the biggest joke, but I told them ‘The day you turn 16 you two need to be here.’ Dad being who he is, last Dec. 5 — I’ll always remember that day — they turned 16 and they both rolled in.”
The menu: Executive chef Samuel Geffroy oversees all the Moulin menus and at MB he’ll be working with Chef de Cuisine Luis Muñoz, formerly of Provenance. Starters ($7-$10) include escargot, smoked salmon, house pâté, salads, Oeuf Mayonnaise and more.
Entrees ($18-$25) are classics ranging from Boeuf Bourguignon to Steak au Poivre Frites and Coq au vin with a Tian Provençal for the vegetarians. Traditional French desserts ($7-$10) get fancy, like Île Flottante, Baba au Rhum, crème brûlée and profiteroles filled with ice cream and drenched in chocolate sauce.
The drinks: Espresso drinks and soft drinks will be served. No cocktails, just beer and wine with a French accent. Order by the glass ($8), carafe ($19) or bottle, price varies by selection. Expect Chablis, refreshing rosé, Old World reds, Stella Artois for the beer drinker, and of course, Champagne.
Bartenders will mix you a kir royale and of course mimosas made with fresh-squeezed orange juice can accompany your brunch. Eggs Benedict and French Toast will be served on weekends.
What’s next? A new Moulin cafe will open at South Coast Plaza on Nov. 15.
Info: Open for dinner 5-9 p.m.daily. Lunch will be added starting Wed. Oct. 20 with continuous service from 11 a.m.-9 p.m. No reservations except for parties of 6 or more. 1000 Bristol St. North, Newport Beach, moulin.com.
The last word: Finally there’s ketchup for the frites because Vrignaud’s daughter complained incessantly when she worked there, “Dad, you’re driving me crazy with the ‘no ketchup’ thing!” Other than that, don’t ask for anything that isn’t French. Requests for avocado omelets will politely be refused. “I have four omelets,” Vrignaud says. “Don’t ask me to make the one that doesn’t exist here. Avocado? No.”
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October 08, 2021 at 02:00AM
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Moulin Bouillon has soft opened in Newport Beach with dinner service - OCRegister
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